Thursday, June 24, 2021

Renaissance Spanish donuts

Donuts

Oranges of Xativa which are Cheesecakes

Toronjas de Xativa que son almojavans 
The book of cooking, Ruperto de Nola (Robert) Logrono, 1529

I experimented with a lot of versions of this recipe and finally settled on the one below.  These are essentially delicious renaissance sweet cheese donuts - I chose to form them into rings, which although it means they no longer resemble oranges, are definitely an acceptable shape according to the recipe which says that they can be formed into "whatever shapes and ostentations you wish". 

Original manuscript recipe
You must take new cheese and curd cheese, and grind them in a mortar together with eggs. Then take dough and knead those cheeses with the curd cheese, together with the dough. And when everything is incorporated and kneaded take a very clean casserole. And cast into it a good quantity of sweet pork fat or fine sweet oil. And when the pork grease or oil boils, make some balls from said dough, like toy balls or round oranges. And cast them into the casserole in such a manner that the ball goes floating in the casserole. And you can also make buñuelos (fritters) of the dough, or whatever shapes and ostentations you wish. And when they are the color of gold, take them out, and cast in as many others. And when everything is fried, put it on plates. And cast honey upon it, and on top of the honey [cast] ground sugar and cinnamon. 
However, note one thing: that you must put a bit of leaven in the cheeses and in the eggs, and in the other put flour. And when you make the balls, grease your hands with a little fine oil, and then [the balls] go to the casserole. And when it is inside, if the dough crackles it is a signal that it is very soft, and you must cast in more flour [into the dough] until it is harder. And when the fritter is made and fried, cast your honey on it, and [cast] sugar and cinnamon on top as is said above.

Redaction
renaissance donuts

150g new cheese (mozarella will do)
150g ricotta
2 eggs (~60g each)
2 cups of flour
1 tsp instant yeast*
cinnamon
sugar
honey
vegetable oil

Method

Grate the mozarella and grind in a large mortar with the ricotta and eggs. Stir in the yeast and allow to rest a little.
Measure the flour into a bowl and make a well in the centre**. Stir in the cheese and egg mixture to make a soft dough. Tip out onto a board and knead for 5 or six minutes.

Allow to sit somewhere warm for approximately an hour.

Form into balls and using your thumb press a hole in through the middle. Allow to rest for 20 minutes or so.

Fry at 190° C until golden brown. Drizzle with honey while hot and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.  Best eaten hot.

 

Notes
*As well as experimenting with instant yeast I also made this recipe using a sour-dough starter. It worked well but as is typical with sour-doughs, it took basically a whole day to make.

**The recipe says to mix the wet ingredients with a dough – I did make a version mixing the wet ingredients with a simple water and flour dough. The resulting 'donuts' were pretty good but it was very awkward to mix the two. As the final results were almost identical, I have settled on using the flour.

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